Ijambo
“Kimono” risobanura mu buryo bw’ijambo ku ijambo “ikintu cyo
kwambara”. Nubwo uyu munsi kimono izwi cyane nk’umwambaro wihariye
w’Abayapani, izina “kimono” mu buryo rikoreshwamo ubu ryatangiye gukoreshwa
cyane mu kinyejana cya 19.
Kimono
yaturutse he?
Amateka y’imyambaro imeze nka kimono asubira inyuma cyane mu mateka y’u Buyapani.
Hari
imyambaro yaturutse mu Bushinwa yagize uruhare mu iterambere ry’imyambarire
y’Abayapani hagati y’ikinyejana cya 4 n’icya 6.
Ariko isura y’umwambaro usa na kimono tuzi uyu munsi yatangiye kubakwa cyane mu gihe cya Heian, hagati ya 794 na 1185.
Muri icyo gihe, Abayapani bateje imbere
uburyo bwo kudoda imyenda bakoresheje uduce tw’umwenda dufite imirongo
igororotse, ku buryo umwambaro washoboraga guhuzwa n’imiterere itandukanye
y’umubiri.
Muri
icyo gihe, umwambaro witwaga kosode wari usanzwe wambarwa nk’umwenda
w’imbere munsi y’indi myambaro minini y’abakomeye. Nyuma, uko imyaka yagiye
ihita, kosode yatangiye kwambarwa nk’umwambaro wo hejuru.
Mu gihe cya Kamakura n’icyakurikiyeho, kosode yakwirakwiriye mu byiciro bitandukanye by’abaturage, harimo abasirikare n’abaturage basanzwe. Ni ho yatangiye kugenda ihinduka umusingi w’umwambaro wa kimono wo muri iki gihe.

Kimono
yabaye imyambaro y’Abayapani bose ite?
Mu
gihe cya Edo (1603–1867), kimono yarushijeho gutera imbere. Ubukungu
bw’abacuruzi bwariyongereye, bituma abantu batangira gushora amafaranga menshi
mu myambaro myiza.
Havumbuwe uburyo bushya bwo gusiga amabara, kuboha no gushushanya imyenda, bituma kimono iba nk’ubuhanzi bwambarwa.
Icyo gihe kandi hakwirakwiriye ibitabo byagaragazaga
imiterere n’ibishushanyo bya kimono, bigira uruhare mu gutuma imyambarire
ihinduka nk’imyambarire y’iki gihe.
Ni
muri iki gihe kandi kimono yageze ku rwego rwo kwambarwa n’abantu bo mu byiciro
bitandukanye by’umuryango w’Abayapani, abagabo n’abagore.
Kuki
kimono yambarwa ibumoso hejuru y’iburyo?
Kimono
ifite umwihariko ushobora gutangaza umuntu utazi umuco w’Abayapani.
Iyo
umuntu muzima ayambaye, uruhande rw’ibumoso ruba hejuru y’urw’iburyo. Guhindura
uko bimeze, iburyo hejuru y’ibumoso, bifitanye isano n’imyambaro y’abapfuye mu
mihango yo kubasezeraho.
Ni yo mpamvu kwambika umuntu muzima kimono mu buryo bunyuranye bishobora gufatwa nk’ikosa rikomeye ry’umuco.

Kimono
isobanuye iki ku muntu uyambaye?
Kimono
si umwambaro gusa. Imiterere, amabara, ibishushanyo n’uburyo wambarwa bishobora
gutanga amakuru ku muntu uwambaye, ku birori ari kwitabira ndetse n’igihe
cy’umwaka.
Hari
kimono zihariye ku bagore batarashaka, iz’abashatse, izambarwa mu bukwe
n’izindi zikoreshwa mu birori bitandukanye. Ibishushanyo na byo bishobora kuba
bifite ibisobanuro bifitanye isano n’ibihe by’umwaka cyangwa umuco.
Furisode, izwi cyane kubera amaboko maremare, isanzwe ifitanye isano n’abakobwa batarashaka kandi ikambarwa cyane mu birori byihariye.

Obi:
Umukandara ufite akamaro gakomeye
Kimono
ntabwo yambarwa gusa uyishyize ku mubiri. Ifungwa hakoreshejwe umukandara
mugari witwa obi.
Obi
ifasha gufata kimono ku mubiri kandi ni kimwe mu bice by’ingenzi bituma
umwambaro ugaragara neza. Hari uburyo bwinshi bwo kuyihambira bitewe
n’umwambaro, uwambaye n’umuhango.
Kwambara
kimono neza bishobora kuba umurimo usaba ubuhanga, cyane cyane kuri kimono
zambarwa mu birori bikomeye.
Kimono
ishobora kuramba imyaka myinshi
Kimono
nziza, cyane cyane izikozwe mu budodo bwa silk, zishobora kuba zifite
agaciro gakomeye kubera ubukorikori bwakoreshejwe mu kuzitunganya.
Mu
miryango imwe, kimono nziza zishobora kubikwa no guhererekanywa hagati
y’ibisekuru, cyane cyane iyo zifite amateka y’umuryango cyangwa ubukorikori
budasanzwe.
Ibi
bituma kimono idafatwa nk’umwambaro gusa, ahubwo ishobora no gufatwa
nk’igikoresho cy’ubuhanzi n’umurage w’umuco.
Kuki
kimono itakiboneka buri munsi?
Mu
gihe cya Meiji (1868–1912), u Buyapani bwatangiye gufungura cyane
imiryango yabwo ku bihugu by’iburengerazuba. Imyambaro yo mu Burengerazuba
yatangiye gufatwa nk’ikimenyetso cy’iterambere n’igihe gishya.
Buhoro
buhoro, imyambaro y’Iburengerazuba yarakwirakwiriye, bituma kimono idakomeza
kuba imyambaro ya buri munsi ku bantu benshi.
Nubwo bimeze gutyo, kimono ntiyazimiye. Kugeza uyu munsi iracyambarwa mu bukwe, imihango gakondo, imihango y’icyayi, iminsi mikuru n’ibindi birori byihariye.

Kimono
isobanura iki ku Bayapani?
Muri
rusange, kimono ihagarariye umuco, amateka, ubuhanzi n’indangamuntu y’Abayapani.
Imiterere
yayo yoroheje ariko ikozwe mu buryo bw’ubuhanga, ibishushanyo biri ku mwenda,
amabara ndetse n’uburyo bwo kuyambara byose bituma iba igice cy’ingenzi
cy’umurage w’u Buyapani.
Nubwo
imyambarire y’iki gihe yahinduye cyane imibereho y’Abayapani, kimono iracyafite
umwanya wihariye. Ni umwambaro uhuza amateka ya kera n’u Buyapani bwo muri iki
gihe, kandi ukomeza kwibutsa Abayapani n’abatuye Isi ko imyambaro ishobora kuba
uburyo bwo kubika no kugaragaza umuco w’igihugu.
