Ubu ibirango byinshi by’imyambarire byo muri Afurika biri kugerageza kwagura ibikorwa byabyo ku masoko mpuzamahanga, aho imyenda yabyo igenda igaragara mu birori bikomeye by’imyambarire ndetse ikanambarwa n’ibyamamare ku isi.
Mu batangiye kugira izina rikomeye harimo umunya-Afurika y’Epfo, Thebe Magugu, watsindiye igihembo cya LVMH Prize mu 2019 gihabwa abahanga mu myambarire bari kuzamuka neza. Iki gihembo kijyana n’inkunga ingana na €300,000. Uyu muhangamideri kandi yafunguye inzu ye y’imyambarire i Johannesburg.
Magugu avuga ko imyambarire ye ihuza uburyo bugezweho n’umuco wa Afurika, ibintu yizera ko bishobora gutuma imyambarire y’uyu mugabane irushaho kumenyekana ku isi.
Yagize ati: “Isi ifite inyota yo kumva inkuru zitandukanye n’izimenyerewe mu Burayi cyangwa muri Amerika. Inkuru n’umuco byo muri Afurika birihariye, kandi abantu babibonye bwa mbere barabishima cyane.”
Impamvu imyambarire ya Afurika igenda ikundwa
Serge Carreira, umuyobozi w’umushinga ufasha ibirango bishya muri Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, avuga ko abantu benshi ku isi bagenda barushaho gushishikazwa n’imyambarire yo muri Afurika.
Avuga ko ibi biterwa n’uko Afurika ifite imico myinshi itandukanye, bigatuma imyambarire yaho iba ifite umwihariko udasanzwe kandi igahuza umuco n’imiterere y’imyambarire igezweho.
Carreira anemeza ko mu myaka 10 iri imbere bishoboka ko hazaboneka nibura amazu abiri cyangwa atatu y’imyambarire yo muri Afurika azahagarara ku rwego rumwe n’amazu akomeye yo mu Burayi.
Raporo ya UNESCO yo mu 2023 igaragaza ko isoko ry’imyambarire ihenze yo muri Afurika rishobora kwiyongera ku kigero cya 42% bitarenze mu 2033, cyane cyane bitewe n’iterambere ry’ubucuruzi bwo kuri internet.
Icyakora, iyo raporo igaragaza ko uru rwego rukiri guhura n’ibibazo birimo kubura inkunga ihagije, ibikorwa remezo bidahagije ndetse n’amahugurwa make ku bakora muri uru rwego.
Magugu avuga ko nawe yahuye n’izi mbogamizi, aho urugero nko gutumiza imyenda yo kudodesha muri Afurika y’Epfo bisaba gutanga umusoro ugera kuri 45%. Ikindi ni uko kubona igishoro ku mishinga mito bikiri ikibazo.
Gukoresha ibikoresho bikomoka muri Afurika
Abahanga mu myambarire bavuga ko uru rwego rwarushaho gutera imbere mu gihe Afurika yakoresha neza ibikoresho byayo bwite. Raporo ya UNESCO igaragaza ko ibihugu 37 byo muri Afurika bihinga ipamba, ariko nubwo bimeze bityo umugabane ugatumiza hanze imyenda n’ibindi bikoresho byayo bifite agaciro ka miliyari $23.1 buri mwaka.
Umunya-Kenya Katungulu Mwendwa, washinze ikirango cy’imyambarire Katush mu 2014, yavuze ko we yibanda cyane ku myambarire irengera ibidukikije. Yagize ati: “Duharanira gukora imyenda ikorerwa muri Afurika 100%, ndetse n’utuntu duto nka buto tukabukorera hano muri Kenya.”
Akenshi ipamba ayivana mu bihugu nka Burkina Faso, Uganda na Tanzania, igatunganywa mbere yo kudodeshwa n’ababoshyi b’i Nairobi.
Ariko gutwara ibikoresho biva mu bihugu bitandukanye bya Afurika birahenda cyane, bigatuma ibirango byo ku mugabane bidashobora guhangana ku giciro n’imyenda ituruka mu bihugu bikomeye mu kohereza imyenda ku isoko mpuzamahanga nka China.
Abahanga mu myambarire benshi berekana ibikorwa byabo mu bitaramo bya fashion week, aho bahurira n’abaguzi, abafotora ndetse n’abamamaza imyambarire. Raporo ya UNESCO ivuga ko buri mwaka muri Afurika haba ibitaramo by’imyambarire bigera kuri 32.
Ibihugu nka Nigeria, Morocco na South Africa bifite ibikorwa by’imyambarire byateguwe neza bituma uru rwego rutera imbere.
Icyakora bamwe mu designers bavuga ko hakiri ikibazo cyo gukurura abaguzi mpuzamahanga muri Afurika, bigatuma benshi bajya kwerekana imyenda yabo mu Burayi cyangwa muri Amerika kugira ngo babone ayo mahirwe.
Mwendwa asoza agira ati: “Imyambarire ntibaho yonyine. Ni ingenzi ko ibirango byacu bigira umwanya ku rwego mpuzamahanga, bigatuma twereka Afurika n’isi yose ibyo dukora kandi tukabyishimira.”
Katungulu Mwendwa, washinze Katush, ubwo yari mu iduka rye muri Nairobi, Kenya
Umunya-Afrika y'Epfo Thebe Magugu (Iburyo) ubwo yatunganyaga bwa nyuma imyenda yo guserukana mu imurikagurisha rya Tranoi Paris muri Nzeri 2024
